Flavorful Functionality of Marinades -- February 2010
Bret A. Lynch, Contributing Editor
Marinating has
been a major contributor of the global food architecture for thousands of
years, for it serves as a foundation to many chefs’ signature dishes. Marinades
(from the Latin mare, meaning “the sea”) got their start before
refrigeration (with salting meat) and have had a long journey: from creating
wholesome sustenance to transforming center-of-the-plate proteins to the
“crave-able,” amazing, food experiences that form some of the most comforting
memories.
Marinade
Basics
Commonly
used to flavor foods, tenderize tougher cuts of meat or firm vegetables,
marinades generally contain one or more of the following: seasonings (salt,
spices, aromatic herbs and vegetables), acids (vinegar, wine, yogurt or citrus
juices) and oil. Each component is its own catalyst, depending on the time the
product is exposed to the marinade and functional requirements. The citrus
component, for example, can modify textural characteristics and, in some cases,
can firm or even “cook” foods, as in the lime juice marinade for raw, pickled
fish in the traditional Latin American dish, ceviche.
The process may last seconds or days, depending on the ethnic origin of the
recipe. The acid portion of the marinade, especially when using citrus or other
fruits, not only affects texture, but also provides a complex character of sour
and bitter; all this occurs while supporting an acidic balance and providing
natural sweetness. However, too much acid can be detrimental to the end
product, degrading the texture, if exposed for an extended period of
time.
The intended flavor of a marinade, intensity, cooking method and application
must be considered. Marinades can be applied externally or internally; for
example, a wet marinade of olive oil, lemon juice, herbs and spices could be
applied in a “static method,” where a tender fillet portion or vegetable is
soaked in marinade, until the proper flavor and texture is met, or the marinade
can is deposited in a vacuum pouch with a protein. A dry rub usually consists
of salt and seasonings and is applied to the surface of a product to impart
flavor, texture and, often, color. A glaze, wet rub or paste-style marinade
coats the surface of a product with dry seasonings mixed with ingredients like
fresh herbs, ground nuts or fruit purees. “Internal marinades” consist of
tumble-marinating and injection. With tumble-marinating, a concentrated
marinade mixture and smaller, more durable raw materials are placed in a sealed
drum under vacuum, to assist in opening up the filaments of a muscle and to let
the marinade penetrate and infuse flavor in
a short period of time. Injection requires a fine marinade or brine with little
or no particulate pumped through needles penetrating the muscle with the
marinade; this also assists in tenderizing, by breaking the muscle structure.
Regardless of the style of marinating, considerations must be made for the
level of sugars, spices or solids left on the surface of the product, so it
does not burn during cooking.
Marinade Techniques Spark
Infusion
Brining is a marinating technique that assists in adding
and retaining moisture in cooked proteins, especially in larger, tougher cuts
of meat, where size, time and salt level are critical. Regional American barbecue is a great
example. In this case, a beef brisket is brined with brown sugar and sea salt,
rubbed with a bold chile powder seasoning blend and smoked with hickory chips
for 12 hours. Salt disrupts the muscle structure and--with a 3% salt solution
or a light brine of 1 part salt, 1 part sugar to 2 parts very cold water (which
helps open up filaments of the muscle)--breaks down the protein structure to
develop tenderizing qualities. Simultaneously, it increases the water-holding
capacity of the muscle, resulting in a juicier product. A specific flavor
profile can be introduced at the brine level, by infusing the brine with
aromatic herbs, vegetables, spices or wine. Fruit juices can be substituted for
part of the sugar, and soy sauce may be introduced for a portion of the salt
and water, adding an additional savory note. One example would be apple ginger
spiced pork brine, made up of apple juice concentrate, orange juice, sea salt,
ginger, garlic, minced onion, allspice, thyme leaves and sherry wine.
Wet marinades are the most common form of imparting great ethnic flavors into
proteins. Chefs often demonstrate creative combinations in traditional regional
flavors fused with unique ingredients. Sometimes, simple is better. A
Mediterranean-style marinade could give subtle flavor to an already rich and
complex protein, such as wild Alaska sockeye salmon, using a good fruity olive
oil, freshly grated orange rind, shallots, lemon thyme and smoked paprika. A Korean-style bulgalbi
marinade on short ribs, with soy sauce, sesame oil and garlic, could have
sweetness imparted through the addition of blackberry puree and the acid of
rice vinegar. Greek lemon chicken would
light up with lemon juice paired with pomegranate juice concentrate, chopped
garlic, oregano, parsley and black pepper, which will add natural sweetness to
an acidic marinade and support even browning during cooking. Cooked cannellini
beans, firm vegetable pieces of cauliflower, eggplant, celery, carrot and bell
pepper can be dropped into a heated liquid marinade of balsamic vinegar, lemon
juice, garlic, sea salt, crushed chile and fresh herbs and chilled for a
unique, pickled antipasti mixture. These are a few examples of how traditional
marinades can take on a new dimension.
Customized
Marinades
Celebrity chefs and entrepreneurs’ family recipes are
making their mark on the retail shelves.
The company Made in Napa Valley provides products to specialty grocery
stores and features a Shanghai Tangerine Sesame Marinade that imparts an
intricate balance of recognizable Asian flavors with a complex savory, spicy
and bright fruit character.
Wet
rubs, like Moroccan charmoula, blend cilantro,
jalapeño peppers, white vinegar, ginger, garlic, lemon peel, cumin seed and
paprika, and are made to be rubbed over trimmed pork loin chops and then
slow-roasted.
Indian chicken, tikka masala, can be modified to
deliver a bold creative twist, by adding a mixture of yogurt with naturally
active tenderizing enzymes, garlic, ginger, cumin, coriander, cardamom, cayenne
and turmeric and then marinating it for 12 hours. The chicken should be
oven-roasted until golden and baked in a roasting pan with ground almonds,
onion, garlic, ginger, garam masala and chile powder;
instead of tomato, substitute mango for a tropical version of a traditional
Indian cuisine staple.
Steve Corson, research chef, Northwest Naturals, says, “Fruit juice concentrates
and fruit juice blends transition extremely well into marinades. They have high
flavor and color impact, with low usage levels and natural enzymes that work
well in the tenderization of protein. We are finding that ethnic flavors from
Southeast Asia, with citrus and tropical fruits; India, with mango and other
tropical flavors; and even the Mediterranean, with bitter citrus and
pomegranate flavors, are becoming more popular.”
Dry rubs can be as simple as salt, pepper and spices sprinkled over a portion
of meat or vegetables before they go on the grill, or they can carry a much
bigger culinary punch. In a seasoning blend, salt and sugar usually make the
base, with the addition of an intended flavor profile. For example, in
Caribbean jerk seasoning, dry granulated garlic, ginger, allspice, cinnamon,
nutmeg and cayenne pepper form the flavor profile, along with the salt and
brown sugar rubbed on chicken breasts before grilling or roasting.
A commercially prepared seasoning might add natural flavors and oils, such as
lime that has been spray-dried to add complexity and incorporate the acidic
balance. Savory notes can be increased with the addition of a dry powdered
yeast extract, or a roasted or natural grill flavor. Rustic texture can be achieved by adding
cracked or whole spices, such as cumin seed, cracked fennel or anise seed, or
even small pieces of dried, roasted garlic. Small chopped, dehydrated red and
green bell peppers can be added as color inclusions and added texture, though
caution should be taken in cooking applications where some of the ingredients
might darken during cooking. Seasoning color can be imparted through natural
colorants, such as pimento oil, turmeric and dried caramel, to enhance browned
or bright visuals in what otherwise might be a pale-colored product.
Pacific Northwest chef Tom Douglas’ product,
Rub with Love, inspires regional international flavors, with items such as
African Peri Peri, Spicy Tokyo and Bengal Masala, as well as balanced protein
topical seasoning blends, and salmon, pork and steak rubs.
Marinating and brining are great ways
to bring a complexity of flavors to the table, when targeting specific
traditional and contemporary recipes. Choose a specific protein with the right
flavor-enhancing system and one that helps guarantee a moister and more
flavorful meal experience for the consumer. pf
Bret A. Lynch is the proprietor and executive chef of Seattle-based EverGreen
Culinary Solutions, LLC, which specializes in sustainable and organic new
product development consulting. He is internationally recognized in the
foodservice, retail, education and R&D areas, with over 25 years of
experience. Chef Lynch represents manufacturers, ingredient suppliers and
national account restaurant chains, operating
as a research chef. He can be contacted at:
b.lynch@evergreenculinary.com,
www.evergreenculinary.com and 206-849-4329.
Website
Resources:
http://store.tomdouglas.com/collections/all -- Home page of Tom Douglas’ line
of cooking rubs and marinades
www.PreparedFoods.com -- Type “marinades” into the search engine, for a
plethora of articles on the subject
http://bit.ly/9oRAW -- An interesting Los Angeles Times
(May 2009) article on marinades, with links to recipes